Finishing piece goods



Patented Aug. 10, 1943 UNITED STATES. PATENT OFFICE" r'mrsunvo PIECE GOODS 7 Shailer L. Bass and Alfred Lawrence, Midland,

Mich, assignors to The Dow Chemical Company, Midland, Mich, a corporation of Michigan No Drawing. Application August 11,1941,

I Serial No. 406,407

9 Claims. (or 117-65) of normal finishing operations, are subjected to hot calendering, friction calendering, or to Schreinering. It'is another object of the invention to provide a method whereby dress goods may be provided with'a thermoplastic finish, which, after friction calendering or Schreiner calendering, will impart to thegoods a high "lustre, a substantially unreduced tensile strength,

and persistent uniformity of finished appearance under wide variations of atmospheric conditions. The composition whereby the treatment of the present invention is made possible consists of an hot calendering the fabric is stiffened. The.

function of the sulfonated oils and other modifiers mentioned above isto soften and oifset the stiifness imparted by the starch during calendering. It is another common experience, particul larly in Schreiner calendering, that starch sized fabrics are materially reduced in strength, pa.r-

ticularly in their warp-wise direction, and to a lesser extent transversely thereto, because of the cutting action of the engraved lines on thesurface of the Schreiner' cylinden' In addition to the disadvantage of their initial stiffness and their loss in strength due'to Schreinering, piece goods so finished show wide variations in handle on storage 'owingto variations in humidity conditions.

It has been proposed (see, for example, U. S. Patent 2,230,792) to size textile fabrics without theuse of starch in order to produce .a stiff and 9 starch-like finish-by applying to the fabric an emulsion consisting essentially of a water-im miscible solution of ethyl cellulose in a volatile solvent under conditions such as to leave in the fabricbetween about 5 and about 40 per. cent of the ethylicellulose, based on the weight of the fabric, and thereafter pressing at a temperature in which at least incipient fusion of the ethyl cellulose occurs. The suggested amount of from 5 to per cent of ethyl cellulose based on the weight of the fabric has been found, in the case 'of cotton or rayon piece goods which are to be "friction or Schreiner calendefed, to impart an undesirably boardyand stiff condition to the fabric so. that it cannot be used for the purpose for which such fabrics are normally intended, e. g. in the manufacture of pajamas, house coats, wash frocks and the like. It has been found, further, thatv such; fabrics do not have the required brilliance or gloss.

It is, accordingly, an object of the invention to provide an attractive finish for-fancy dress goods and other fabrics of the kind which,-in-one' stage aqueous emulsion of'a water-immiscible solution .of a water-insoluble but orgauiic solvent-soluble cellulose ether and a non-volatile plasticizer for that ether in such proportions that the softening point of the cellulose ether-plastieizer' mixture is between about and about 0.,

the said emulsion containing as well an aqueous dispersion of a waxy body having a melting point above 50 C. and being present in an-amount between about 1 and about 10 per cent of the total weight of cellulose ether and plasticizer present in the emulsion. The method of the present invention comprises impregnating a cellulosic fabric with the aqueous emulsion of cellulose ether, plasticizer, and wax above described, under "conditions such as to deposit on the fabric an amount of non-volatile material, which, after drying, is equivalent to from about 0.5 to about 3.5 per cent, and preferably from 0.5 to 1.5 per cent of the dry weight'of the fabric, evaporating the water and volatile solvent from the impregnated fabric, and then subjecting the fabric to a hot calendering, friction calendering, or Schreiner calendering operation at a cloth temperature near or somewhat above the softening point of the plasticized cellulose ether present, at least suflicient to fuse the said plasticized cellulose ether.

While it is most convenient and economical to use ethyl cellulose as the cellulose ether constituent of the'emulsion, other cellulose alkyl ethers, including propyl cellulose, butyl cellulose and aralkyl ethers such as benzyl cellulose, may be satisfactorily employed. The cellulose ether utilized preferably should be of a low or moderately low viscosity type and should, for most economical operation, besufllciently highly substituted so that alcoholic solutions thereof have a high aliphatic hydrocarbon tolerance. Suitable ethyl celluloses are those having a de- Suitable plasticizers for use in the new textile butyl cellulose, and the aralkyl celluloses, will require less plasticizer than the lower derivatives, e. g., ethyl cellulose. Again, more highly substituted alkyl celluloses require the addition of less plasticizer than do the lowly substituted alkyl celluloses. In general, the amount of plasticizer varies from to 50 per cent of the plasticized ethyl cellulose portion of the composition. It is to be understood that, in addition to the suggested ingredients, the emulsions here used as treating compositiohs may contain other cellulose ether adjuvants, such as compatible but water-insoluble resins.

' EXAMPLE 22 parts of ethyl' cellulose of 48.5 per cent ethoxyl content and- 11 parts of monophenyl diorthoxenyl phosphate are dissolved in the mixture of 57 parts of Solvesso No. 2 and 10 parts of n-butanol. Two parts of this lacquer were emulsified withone part of water containing 1 per cent of an emulsifying agentAresklene No. 375 (a butylated phenyl phenol sodium disulfonate) This master emulsion was diluted to make two finishing compositions as follows:

, No. 1 Master emulsion "a gallons 1.2 Socony-Vacuum PD-87 wax emulsion I quart 1 Water to 50 gallons.

No. 2 Master emulsion gallons .0 Socony-Vacuum I'D-87 wax emulsion quart 1' Water to 50 gallons.

Socony-Vacuum PD-S7 wax emulsion is a percent wax emulsion the solid content of which comprises a mixture of carnanba wax and a micro-crystalline wax -from petroleum having a melting point of 175 F.

Solvesso No. 2 is a hydrogenated petroleum fraction of partial aromatic character. having a boiling range of 135-174 C. This material is a latent solvent for ethyl cellulose requiring only the addition of small amounts either of butanol or other active alcohol type solvent or of straight aromatic hydrocarbons such as toluene, to convert it to a true solvent for such cellulose ethers.

Composition Nos. 1 and 2 represent the co mpositions preferred for use in the present invention. It is to beunderstood', however, that other types of wax emulsion and other cellulose ethers and plasticizers than the ones of this example may be used within the above-stated limits; 1

Several different cotton fabrics were padded through these diluted emulsions, run'between squeeze rolls, l artially dried on heated cylinders, and dried to width on a frame. The padding, squeezing and drying werefound to have increased the weight of the cloth by about 1 per cent. After conditioning, they were given a glaze on a friction calender, Schreinered on a 340 line calender at about:130- C.', and then topped off by running face down on the bottom 'roll of a friction calender. All the cloths had a beautiful deep-seated lustre which was markedly aszaooo superior to the, usual starch finish. Tensile strength determinations were made to compare the strength of the untreated fabrics with that of the various ethyl cellulose treated Schreinered fabrics and to compare both with the strength of similar fabrics that had been treated with a sulfonated oil-stearic acid-starch composition prior to Schreinering. This double comparison 'is given in the following table. In this table, the

finish comprising the sulfonated oil-starch treatment is called regular.

-By comparing the tensile strengths listed in the table, it will be seen that the strength characteristics, both in the warp and the filling directions, of fabrics treated with the improved emulsion finish are greatly superior to those of fabrics treated with the prior art finishes. In fact, as evidenced by the table, fabrics treated according to this invention are very nearly as strong after hot calendering and Schreinering as are untreated fabrics. Increasing the amount of finish deposited on the cloth beyond about 3.5 per cent greatly increased the stiffness without materially altering the strength, and is unnecessarily expensive and undesirable. For most uses, it was found that a deposit equal to 1.5 per cent of the weight of cloth is adequate, both as to the finish imparted and the strength retained.

The calendered dress goods so finished retains a considerable portion of their body and some of were brighter, and were retained longer on wear than in similar goods sized with the regular starch base finishes.

We claim:

1. A method for the production of glossy finished dress goods of high uniformity and high retention of finish and shade on laundering, which comprises impregnating a fabric with an aqueous emulsion containing dispersed both a wax and a water-immiscible organic solvent solution of a plasticized cellulose ether which is itself plasticized cellulose ether to deposit on the cloth ished dress goods of high uniformity and high retention of finishand shade on laundering,

which comprises impregnating a fabric with an aqueous emulsion containing dispersed both a wax and a water-immiscible organic solvent solution of a, plasticized cellulose ether which is itself insoluble in water, wherein the plasticized cellu lose ether has a softening point between about 90 and 125 C. and wherein the wax has a melting point above 50 C. and is present in amount from -1 to about per cent-ofthe weight of plasticized cellulose ether to deposit on the cloth an amount of the named non-volatile treating agents in the range from about 0.5 to about 1.5 per cent of the dry weight of the cloth, drying to. remove water and volatile solvents from the impregnated cloth, and then subjecting the fabric to a friction calendering operation at a cloth temperature at least suflicient to fuse the plasticized cellulose ether present.

3. A method for the production of glossy finished dress goods of high uniformity and high retention of finish and shade on laundering, which comprises'impregnating a fabric, with an aqueous emulsion containing dispersed both a wax and a water-immiscible organic solvent solution of a plasticized cellulose ether which is' itself insoluble in water, wherein the plasticized cellulose ether has a softening point between about 90 and 125 C. and wherein the wax has a melting point about Crand is present in amount from 1 to about 10 per cent of the weight of plasticized cellulose etherto deposit on the cloth an amount of the named non-volatile treating agents in the range from about 0.5 to about 1.5 per cent of the dry weight of the cloth, drying to remove water and volatile solvents from the.

impregnated cloth, and then subjecting the fabric to a Schreiner calendering operation at aclotha melting point above 50 C. and is present in amount from 1 to about 10 per cent of the weight of plasticized ethyl cellulose to deposit on the cloth an amount of the named non-volatile treating agents in the range from about 0.5 to about 3.5 per cent of the dry weight of the cloth, drying v to remove water and volatile solvents from the impregnated cloth, and then subjecting the fabric to a hot calendering operation.

5. A method for the production of glossy finished dress-goods of high uniformity and high retention offinish and shade on laundering,

which comprises impregnating a fabric with an aqueous emulsion containing dispersed both a wax and a water-immiscible organic solvent solution of a plasticized ethyl cellulose which is itself insoluble in water, wherein the plasticized ethyl cellulose has a softening point between about 90 and 125 C. and wherein the wax has a melting point above 50 C. and is present in amount from 1 to about 10 per cent of the weight of plasticized ethyl cellulose to deposit on the .cloth an amount of the named non-volatile treating agents in the range from about 0.5 to about 1.5 per cent of the dry weight of the cloth, drying to remove water and volatile solvents from the impregnated cloth, and then subjecting the fabric to a friction calendering operation at a cloth temperature at least sufllcient to fuse the plasticized ethyl cellulose present.

6. A method. for the production of glossy finished dress goods of high uniformity and high retention of finish and shade on laundering, which comprises impregnating a fabric with an aqueous emulsion containing dispersed both a wax and a water-immiscible organic solvent solution of a plasticized ethyl cellulose which is itself.-

insoluble in water, wherein the plasticized ethyl cellulose has a softening point between about 90 and 125 C. and wherein the wax has a melting point above 50 C. and is present in amount from 1 to about 10 per cent of the weight of plasticized ethyl cellulose to deposit on the cloth an amount of the named non-volatile treating agents in the range from about 0.5 to about 1.5 per cent of the dry weight of the cloth, drying to remove water and volatile solvents from the impregnated cloth, and tlgn subjecting-the fabrie to a "Schreiner calendering operation at a cloth temperature at least sufiicient to fuse the plasticized ethyl cellulose present.

7. A method for the production of glossy. finished dress goods of high uniformity and high retention of finish and shade on laundering, which comprises impregnating a, fabric with an aqueous emulsion containing dispersed both a wax and water-immiscible organic solvent solu tion of a plasticized ethyl cellulose which is itself insoluble in water, wherein the plasticized ethyl cellulose has a softening point between about 90 and 125 C. and wherein the wax is a mixture of microcrystalline petroleum wax and carnauba wax which mixture melts above 50 C;

' and is present in amount from 1 to about 10 per cent of the weight of plasticized-ethyl cellulose to deposit on the cloth an amount of the named non-volatile treating agents in the range from about 0.5 to about 3.5 per cent of the dry weight of the cloth, drying to remove water and volatile solvents from the impregnated cloth, and then subjecting the tion.

8. A method for the production of glossy finished dress goods of high uniformity and high retention of finish and shade on laundering, which comprises impregnating a fabric with an aqueous emulsion containing dispersed both a wax and a water-immiscible organic solvent solution of a plasticized ethyl cellulose which is itself insoluble in water, wherein the plasticized ethyl cellulose has a softening point between about and C. and wherein the wax is a mixture of microcrystalline petroleum V wax and camauba. wax which mixture melts above 50 .C. and is present in amount from 1 to about 10 per cent of the weight of plasticized ethyl cellulose to deposit on the cloth an amount of the named non-volatile treating agentsinthe range from about 0.5 to about 1.5 per cent of the dry weight of the cloth, drying to remove water and volatile solvents from the impregnated cloth, and then sub- .iecting the fabric to a friction calendering opera tion at a cloth temperature at least sufficient to fuse the plasticized ethyl cellulose present.

9. A method for the production of glossy finis'hed dress goods of high uniformity and high .aqueous emulsion containing dispersed both a wax and a water-immiscible organic solvent solution of a plasticized ethyl cellulose whlch'is itself fabric to a hot calendering operainsoluble in water, wherein the plasticized ethyl non-volatile treating agents in the range from cellulose has a softening point between about 90 about 0.5 to about 1.5 per cent of the dry weight and 125 C. and wherein the wax is a mixture of of the cloth, and then subjecting the fabric to a microcrystalline petroleum wax and camauba Schreiner calendering operation at a cloth temwax which mixture melts above 50 C. and is 5 perature at least suflicient to fuse the plasticized present in amount from 1 to about 10 per cent ethyl cellulose present.

of the weight of plasticized ethyl cellulose to SHAILER. L. BASS.

deposit on the cloth an amount of the named ALFRED A. LAWRENCE. 

